ID / Vice MAGAZINE - "Want to know what music we'll be hearing at Melbourne Fashion Festival 2015?"
We speak to Will Pyett, the festival's music director of eight years, about what he has in store.
With the Melbourne Fashion Festival approaching, we've become curious as to what we're going to be hearing when the show begins and whether it will be the first time we hear our favourite new songs. Will Pyett has been the Music Director for MFF for the last eight years in which time he's progressed from 'the DJ arriving 30 minutes prior to the show armed with a CD' to an integral member who works closely with the designers, producers and stylists to create a considered and structured musical accompaniment to the runway shows. All of the Premium Runways are mixed live to create maximum impact in terms of timing and song structure and he works with each designer to create a musical beginning, middle and end. If you find yourself nodding your head this year, you probably have Will to thank.
How do you tend to go about choosing the music for the festivals?
I'm always filing music away that I think will work well on the runway. As part of my work I try to listen to a bunch of new music every day - and not just the stuff I am particularly in to - so when it comes to festival time I have a pretty solid chunk of music ready to go. Most runways at MFF are group shows involving around eight to ten designers and I'll usually chat to the stylist and the show producer to discuss the theme or vibe, then I'll chat to the designers and finally work on putting together the music for the show as a whole mix. I'll see if the tracks are working together and get sign off from all parties. Dress rehearsal gives us a chance to make a final call if there is any doubt, and we get a pretty immediate idea about whether the music is working or not. There's a great team of people working on the shows.
What are you feeling for VAMFF 2015 musically speaking?
I'm feeling a heap of heavy beats for the runway, lots of bass driven tweaked out stuff. I am also playing around with some really spacey ambient type stuff, and would like to do a whole show of that. We did a killer hip hop show last year which I'd be keen to explore again.
Which tracks that are lighting up your world?
Not necessarily for the runway but:
Shlohmo - Buried
RL Grime - Always
Travi$ Scott - Nothin but Net
Bobby Shmurda - Hot N!gga
Beyonce - 7 / 11
What are you most excited about in music right now?
Slow tempos and heavy bass....and the Shmoney Dance!
Do you think that the music played at fashion festivals can be a glimpse of what's going to be big?
Not necessarily, a great runway track is not necessarily always going to be a big hit musically. I definitely try to push music that I consider to be great regardless of whether it's an unknown beat maker from SoundCloud or a chart topping Beyonce hit. If it works for the show, I'll use it.
What are some of your favourite examples of music used in a fashion show?
Jamie XX for Kenzo a few years ago was amazing. ARCA just did the Hood By Air show and I really liked some of that. I kind of liked what Kanye did for yeezus with the atmospheric stuff too. In terms of my own shows, it's pretty hard to pick a favourite. We opened a show last year with Rick Ross - Devil Is A Lie which really killed it on the runway. It's amazing how some songs work so well...
...My favourite shows are the ones that really come alive in the mix, it's kind of hard to predict, but when you nail the timings and it runs super tight, it's usually a pretty great show.
Briony Wright 23 February, 2015
https://i-d.vice.com/en_au/article/want-to-know-what-music-well-be-hearing-at-melbourne-fashion-festival-2015
HARYONO SETIADI SS 14/15
For SS15 Haryono Setiadi explores the ambient fluidity of water with a diaphanous collection of manipulated silks, delicate organza’s with a nod to futurism via custom-made organic Italian fabrications.
His meditation on form was sparked by recent travels where he was inspired by the stark, rugged cliff formations of the Eastern Australian coastline. This inspiration was juxtaposed into a soft ethereal collection of delicate, raw-hemmed cocktail dresses, tailored jackets, sportive trousers, shell tops, and origami folded skirts.
Whilst the conceptual development of his vibrant sunset hued colour palette was derived from the modernist architectural movement in Cartagena Spain, there was an intense surf-inspired colour-play throughout the collection.
Haryono subverted his traditional use of tailoring, resulting in celestial silhouettes that appear as if they oscillate off the body.
However, at the heart of his collection is creativity and a willingness to communicate a bold new vision forward for the Haryono Setiadi woman.
SS15 finds Haryono Setiadi looking homeward with a refined collection that celebrates strong, independent women.
Proudly supporting Australia’s fashion industry, Haryono Setiadi is presented by Macquarie Centre. Currently undergoing a $440 million transformation, the new-look Macquarie Centre will re-launch in October 2014 as one of Sydney’s leading fashion destinations.
Working with the legendary Music Director & DJ, Will Pyett, Haryono and Creative Director, Mark Vassallo, created a hypnotic pre-show soundscape of ambient rolling waves that gently washed over the audience, before the enticing plea of the mythological siren summoned the Haryono Setiadi woman into a new era.
In collaboration with Griffiths, Haryono created a first-of-its-kind signature blend of coffee. Guests enjoyed the light aromatic blend at a Griffiths Coffee pre-show pop up bar. Guests were also served a light healthy start to their MBFWA day courtesy of The Chia Co’s Chia Pods. Water company Nakd also kept guests hydrated with bottles of luxurious artesian water sourced from New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty.
The minimalistic themes extended to the accessories, Haryono again partnered with long-term collaborators, Skin Footwear on a singled strapped, stiletto heeled sandal. Ryan Storers custom-made sterling silver ear cuffs completed the Haryono Setaidi's SSS15 runway presentation .
His meditation on form was sparked by recent travels where he was inspired by the stark, rugged cliff formations of the Eastern Australian coastline. This inspiration was juxtaposed into a soft ethereal collection of delicate, raw-hemmed cocktail dresses, tailored jackets, sportive trousers, shell tops, and origami folded skirts.
Whilst the conceptual development of his vibrant sunset hued colour palette was derived from the modernist architectural movement in Cartagena Spain, there was an intense surf-inspired colour-play throughout the collection.
Haryono subverted his traditional use of tailoring, resulting in celestial silhouettes that appear as if they oscillate off the body.
However, at the heart of his collection is creativity and a willingness to communicate a bold new vision forward for the Haryono Setiadi woman.
SS15 finds Haryono Setiadi looking homeward with a refined collection that celebrates strong, independent women.
Proudly supporting Australia’s fashion industry, Haryono Setiadi is presented by Macquarie Centre. Currently undergoing a $440 million transformation, the new-look Macquarie Centre will re-launch in October 2014 as one of Sydney’s leading fashion destinations.
Working with the legendary Music Director & DJ, Will Pyett, Haryono and Creative Director, Mark Vassallo, created a hypnotic pre-show soundscape of ambient rolling waves that gently washed over the audience, before the enticing plea of the mythological siren summoned the Haryono Setiadi woman into a new era.
In collaboration with Griffiths, Haryono created a first-of-its-kind signature blend of coffee. Guests enjoyed the light aromatic blend at a Griffiths Coffee pre-show pop up bar. Guests were also served a light healthy start to their MBFWA day courtesy of The Chia Co’s Chia Pods. Water company Nakd also kept guests hydrated with bottles of luxurious artesian water sourced from New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty.
The minimalistic themes extended to the accessories, Haryono again partnered with long-term collaborators, Skin Footwear on a singled strapped, stiletto heeled sandal. Ryan Storers custom-made sterling silver ear cuffs completed the Haryono Setaidi's SSS15 runway presentation .